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Cred: 5039 | Review by marks
Good Features
This is Black Diamond's response to the reverso. The main advantage is the dual friction mode. The loop is designed to help aid in releasing the auto-blocking feature. IMO if you can't release the reverso, you can't release this either so I don't view this as an improvement. I prefer the flexable stem over Petzl's rigid stem but thats not a major issue.
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
Was this useful? Yes | No Read 51 Reviews | Add a Review | Read 6 Retailer DescriptionsFrom US Outdoor Store:- High Friction Mode for greater control and holding power
- Regular Friction Mode for normal climbing and rappelling
- In Guide Mode it locks if someone falls & has lowering capabilities
- Unique release point built into the unit
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Competitive Products| Image |  |  |  | | Name | ATC Guide | Reversino Belay Device | Reverso Belay Device | | Brand | Black Diamond | Petzl | Petzl | | Lowest Price | 18.57 | 13.98 | 22.36 | | Type | Auto Blocking | Auto Blocking | Auto Blocking | | Weight (g) | 102 | 57⇓ | 80⇓ | | Rope Size Min (mm) | 7.7 | 7.5⇓ | 8⇑ | | Rope Size Max (mm) | 11 | 8.2⇓ | 11 | | Dual Rope Rappels | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Dual Friction | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Add ReviewAverage Review: 4.9
Cred: 5039 | Review by marks
Good Features
This is Black Diamond's response to the reverso. The main advantage is the dual friction mode. The loop is designed to help aid in releasing the auto-blocking feature. IMO if you can't release the reverso, you can't release this either so I don't view this as an improvement. I prefer the flexable stem over Petzl's rigid stem but thats not a major issue.
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
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Cred: 1376 | Review by Keese
Good Features
Autoblocking, much easier lowering of an autoblocked second than the Reverso, wider selection of rope sizes than the Reverso, non rigid cable, teeth for improved gripping
Bad Features
umm ???? doesnt come in the color green?
Recommended Alternatives
BUY THIS ONE! |
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Cred: 555 | Review by rmcgibbo
Good Features
Really beefy construction. The release hole is big enough to get a small biner in to use as a handle. Cheeper than the new reverso. Won't sharpen up like the old reverse.
Bad Features
A little heavy, but I don't really count grams on belay devices - it's not like you're carying 50 as you are with biners.
On my 10.5 it's a little hard to feed when belaying the 2nd, but on my friend's 10.2 it's a lot better.
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
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Cred: 58 | Review by fb_29707558
Good Features
Best belay device for multi pitch climbing period. More size range on acceptable ropes than the petzl reverso, and it also has a nifty hole to attach some cord for lowering a second in the need should arise. |
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Cred: 264 | Review by checkpositive001
Good Features
More solid than the reverso, because it is one continuous piece of metal. Doesn't for any sharp edges like the reverso can with wear.
hands-free anchor belay is great
Bad Features
sometimes hard to pull larger diameter ropes thru on direct anchor belays
Recommended Alternatives
regular ATC
petzl grigri |
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Cred: 195 | Review by scottydo
Good Features
Just got this but it seems super solid and very handy
Bad Features
A little on the heavy side compared to the regular ATC |
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Cred: 8 | Review by jimmyw
Good Features
Very smooth, the teeth work great for heavier climbers.
Bad Features
Too much grip when trying to rap
Recommended Alternatives
Normal Atc or figure 8 for raps but for belays you cant beat it |
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Cred: 95 | Review by fb_722631787
Good Features
Very easy to use. Allows a second to be belayed off the anchor and the added small hole allows you to unlock the second once weight is added.
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso |
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Cred: 30 | Review by cscolt
Good Features
Auto-block mode and Great friction. This bad boy is a great addition as a main belay device, and its tough as nails.
Bad Features
Too heavy for use as a backup,
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl Reverso, Camp Ovo belay plate, Munter hitch. |
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Cred: 38 | Review by fb_555560325
Good Features
Best device I've ever used.
Great grip.
Reverses for the smoothest rappel ever!
Solid construction. |
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Cred: 36 | Review by fb_737207491
Good Features
Versatile e.g double rope use, adjustable use according to rope thickness and slickness.
Bad Features
I've never used the guide function, so no functional addition for me. |
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Cred: 361 | Review by eddiemack
Good Features
Great for simul climbing or all around ATC. Works the rope nicely. Gets a good grip when needed.
Bad Features
none
Recommended Alternatives
I also like the Trango Cinch, but the guide is a standard piece. |
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Cred: 5 | Review by K2sjb1
Good Features
I have been climbing for over two decades. I have used many, many belay devices from multiple manufacturers. This is my favorite so far because of the versitality and the auto lock off feature.
Bad Features
The only bad thing so far is that large assault type ropes will not work with this device. |
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Cred: 42 | Review by fb_38400292
Good Features
great multi-use belay devise
Recommended Alternatives
Petzl reverso, but the guide is better |
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Cred: 60 | Review by Jon Cannon
Good Features
Guide belay setting is awesome
Bad Features
Funky to figure out at first. |
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Cred: 151 | Review by climbandkayak
Good Features
Versatile, especially if you'll ever belay from above. |
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Cred: 93 | Review by climbercam
Good Features
Auto-block, smooth belaying and easy catching, even with small mm ropes.
Bad Features
None.
Recommended Alternatives
None. |
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Cred: 48 | Review by jciccotti
Good Features
the loops on either side to make belaying off the rappel easier. |
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Cred: 91 | Review by fb_12711439
Good Features
awesome versatility for slow or fast raps, anchor loop is very helpful |
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Cred: 73 | Review by forsakenclimber
Good Features
Makes multi pitch belaying easy as pie
Bad Features
Hard to give slack. |
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Cred: 102 | Review by Delta V
Good Features
Awesome for twins, doubles and belaying 2 clients at the same time |
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Cred: 12 | Review by fb_504763858
Good Features
Get your reverso out of my atc, get your atc out of my reverso |
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Cred: 22 | Review by fb_73201981
Good Features
great for multi uses. can be set up as an autolocker if you know how
Bad Features
heavy |
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Cred: 36 | Review by wild country
Good Features
quite usefull and does well on any rope climb and diameter |
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Cred: 12 | Review by wrongfloor
Good Features
auto-blocking for multi-pitch
high & low friction
Bad Features
heavy |
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Cred: 24 | Review by dvsbenz
Good Features
high friction and low friction side. loop for belaying from the top
Bad Features
none |
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Cred: 28 | Review by fb_34320665
Good Features
Two friction settings and multiple applications.
Bad Features
A bit heavier than the ATC. |
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Cred: 27 | Review by devin
Good Features
Autoblock is useful but I find it a bit clumsy.
Recommended Alternatives
Reverso 3 |
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Cred: 169 | Review by skillet
Good Features
best of the bunch! 'nuff said! |
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Cred: 44 | Review by fb_1568880112
Good Features
great belay device, autoblock mode
Bad Features
a touch heavy |
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Cred: 25 | Review by ethatch
Good Features
incredible
Recommended Alternatives
revirso...just kidding they suck |
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Cred: 27 | Review by DRoth
Bad Features
Havent Found any yet |
Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No Login to add comments. Was this useful? Yes | No | Image | | | Name | ATC Guide | | Brand | Black Diamond | | Lowest Price | 22.49 | | Type | Auto Blocking | | Weight (g) | 102 | | Rope Size Min (mm) | 7.7 | | Rope Size Max (mm) | 11 | | Dual Rope Rappels | Yes | | Dual Friction | Yes |
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From US Outdoor Store:
- High Friction Mode for greater control and holding power
- Regular Friction Mode for normal climbing and rappelling
- In Guide Mode it locks if someone falls & has lowering capabilities
- Unique release point built into the unit
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From Mountain Gear:
The ATC Guide by Black Diamond is a full-function belay and rappel device with two friction options (regular or high friction) and a guide mode belays and lowers one or two seconding climbers. Features: - The dual-friction capabilities regulate the speed of your rappel or lower
- A full-strength anchor clip-in point is large enough to clear most locking-carabiner sleeves
- Small seconday hole for lowering lets you girth hitch a sling or thread a microstopper for more leverage
- Compatible with all climbing ropes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm
Specifications: - Weight: 3.6 ounces
- Material: Aluminum
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From Backcountry:
The self-locking capability of the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device makes it an excellent choice when you cast off on multi-pitch trad, ice, and alpine climbs. The ATC Guidewinner of the Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Awardbelays a leader just like any other tube-style device, but it can also be connected directly to your anchor to create a self-locking system when you're belaying one or two following climbers. This allows you to eat, drink, tie your shoes, and take pictures as you belay with confidence that your partners are completely safe. Its unique release point lets you lower a following climber when the ATC Guide is in self-locking mode, even if he's way heavier than you. The aggressive V-notch allows this belay device to work on ropes from 7.7 to 11mmeven when they're icy. Was this useful? Yes | No
From Rock Creek:
The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a full function belay device with dual frictions belay and rappel modes and a Guide Mode for belaying one or two seconding climbers. In Guide Mode it locks if someone falls, plus you can lower a climber regardless of weight difference between climber and belayer, because of a unique release point built in to the unit. Was this useful? Yes | No
From Als Sports:
Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay DeviceOne device to do it all, the ATC-Guide offers maximum versatility. It has a smooth regular friction side and for twice the friction, a grooved high friction side. When youre belaying from above, the guide mode lets you bring up one or two seconding climbers. For lowering, it has a small secondary hole to which you can girth hitch a sling or thread a micro stopper to gain more leverage when lowering weighted ropes. Features:WEIGHT: 102 G (3.6 OZ) Was this useful? Yes | No
From EMS:
Full function belay and rappel device with choice of two friction modes and a Guide Mode for belaying seconding climbers. - High Friction Mode for greater control and holding power
- Regular Friction Mode for normal climbing and rappelling
- In Guide Mode has lowering capabilities and locks if someone falls
- Unique release point built into the unit
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